Finding Safe Harbors

We’ve now visited all but one of the major islands in both the British and US Virgin chains.  Today, we will complete the set by heading south to St. Croix.  Yesterday, we left the British waters and headed to the south side of St. John Island.  Spent the night in Great Lameshur Bay which is part of the US National Park system.  Thirteen dollars to “park” your boat on a mooring ball is a pretty great deal (retiree’s 50% discount!).

This morning, we’ll head out into the open waters for a 38 mile jaunt to the largest of all the Virgin islands.  Expecting to average between 5-6 miles per hour, we’re leaving early (before 8am) and hope to arrive by 3:30-4pm.  And, we’re stuck in a high pressure system that’s slowing turning, which means the winds are down to 4-6 knots and we’ll likely motor, or at best motor-sail, over.  And probably back.  That’s OK because we won’t be beating into the winds today and we’re only talking about 7-8 hours.

Back to St. Croix.  Like St. Thomas and St. John, St. Croix was part of the Dutch West Indies, until the US purchased all three islands in 1916 for $25 million.  There are two main towns:  Christiansted and Fredriksted.  The capital is Christiansted and faces to the north.  Fredriksted is on the west end of the island and hosts the cruise ships at what is a slight curvature of the land.   Not really a harbor per se.  We’ll head into Christiansted which has barrier reefs to maneuver through and we’ll hope to set the anchor off a sandy beach we’ve heard about.  The guide book offers high praise  (which guide books don’t?):  “Flatter and more fertile than most islands, it was known as The Garden Spot of the Caribbean during the colonial centuries and it is still relatively unspoiled and undeveloped….Many cruisers who dropped anchor for a short visit have become permanent residents of St. Croix.”  Don’t think that’s happening to us…   

We look forward to seeing the town’s architecture (similar to Charlotte Amalie, I think).  And hope there’s a museum or statue of Alexander Hamilton (this was his childhood home).  And perhaps we’ll visit the Cruzan rum factory, one of the larger rum producers in the islands.

                             

Things to look forward to…

But, it’s the getting there that prompts this reflection.   We will pass over the Virgin Island Trough (14,000 feet deep).  And, because we’ll be motoring, we will head almost on a direct line to the harbor’s entrance.  If we were sailing only, we would aim for the eastern end of the island in order to allow for the ½ mile per hour current that would push the boat to the center. 

The harbor at Christiansted is a tricky one to enter.  Again from the Guidebook:  “The saddle formed by Lang Peak and Recovery Hill makes an easy landmark.  Head for a point midway between them until you pick up the radio tower on Fort Louise Augusta.  Pass the first green buoy (#1) to port (left), then line up the radio tower between the channel markers.  This should be approximately 164 degrees True.  Long Reef, which extends across the harbor will be seen breaking to starboard.  On your port hand is Scotch Bank and, although the charts indicate that parts of it are covered with adequate water, it is wise to stay clear whenever there is a sea running, as it breaks in a ground swell.” 

Actually, the charts indicate that there is another reef right in the middle of the harbor’s entrance and you must choose whether to go to the left or right of it.  Thank goodness there are channel markers along the way.  And the point?  Best to leave early, because you want to see this with your own eyes and motor through it in daylight.  Making entrance into an unfamiliar harbor without good sunlight is not a good idea.

It’s 6:30 now.  Time to get ready.  Will pick this up again later.

Leaving St. John's

Greeting the morning sun

St. Croix 30 miles ahead

…..

So, we left at 7:00am and headed due south.  The seas were about 1-2 feet high, the waves pushing from the east and the winds were about 7-9 knots.  We used the engines only for the first hour and, at 2200 rpms, were making about 6 mph.  Then we added the main sail and our speed increased to 6.5 mph.  Moments later we added the jib and we were averaging well over 7mph (7.4 at the fastest).   By Noon, we had made the crossing, in five hours, and in another 30 minutes, we had maneuvered through the channel and dropped the anchor!

Round Reef in the middle of the Christiansted Harbor entrance!

The seas were empty.  We saw only one sailboat, heading north, the entire trip.  We passed each other about a mile apart.  Too far to wave, and too lazy to use the VHF radio.  The autopilot allowed us to sit in the cockpit and work on a project or two.  And as we were passing over the Trough, I thought:  the sea floor below me is as deep under the surface as Wheeler Peak (highest peak in New Mexico) is above (13,100 feet).

Using the autopilot gives you extra time to think.  And what occurred to me is how few harbors there are for the amount of coast line there is.  The coast line of the United States (including Alaska and Hawaii) is just over 12,000 miles.  If you adjust for high tides, when the water comes in and fills in the crevices and creeks, that number jumps to over 94,000 miles!  There are 1,112 harbors in the coastal states and I suspect some of those may not be directly accessible to seagoing vessels.  For example, New York has 57 harbors and surely some of them are related to the Great Lakes.  Alaska has 58 harbors and ports.  California – 119; Florida – 257; Washington State 92; Hawaii and Puerto Rico have 7; Alabama has 8; Texas 22  (state by state list included below)

In other words most of the US coastline (and most of the coasts around the world) are not accessible to the seafarer.  The coast may have pretty beaches, beautiful rock cliff formations, gorgeous estuaries and inlets, but if you’re looking for a safe harbor, you often don’t have many choices.

Most of the US and the world's coastlines - unapproachable by boat

In the case of St. Croix, the island has 84 square miles and given it’s shape, there’s probably 100-125 coastline miles.  Out of that, there are only 4 harbors, and one of them is basically a cruise ship dock that has been built into the ocean (Google map the west side of St. Croix and you’ll see what I mean).  Not a lot of choices for a ship coming to rest.  And even then, the few harbors that are reachable can have dangerous entrances that require great caution to approach.

…

Last night, we anchored in Gallows Bay, Christiansted and because of the waves coming from the north, we rocked and rolled way too much.  Today, we moved the boat to a marina for one night and are in a much more protected and welcoming place.  Not a lot of choices.  We are fortunate to have found one that works for us.

So, here’s a final thought for the church.  Suppose for a moment, that churches understood themselves to be harbors.  And suppose those who worship there are likened unto boats and ships – some regularly known and others passing by, maybe looking for a harbor to rest, re-fuel, meet other boaters, share histories and adventures, and learn some things for the next trip.  And suppose, worshipping together might be seen as a time and place when boaters gather in harbors, etc., etc.  How few of our churches are prepared to welcome the boaters and cruisers and folks looking for a place to reflect on life and the faith. 

Personally, I think churches are either living or they’re dying.  And the living ones seem to know that people coming their way are like boaters looking for a safe place to anchor or tie off onto a dock.  The dying ones don’t do the work to make the entrance welcoming and safe for travellers – no channel markers, no jetties that protect from ocean swells.  You get the analogy.  Maybe it works for you; maybe not. 

Kind of nice when the harbors include some waterfront gathering spots

Regardless, it’s good to have time to wonder, and understand the world as it is.  Lots of coastline, lots of beauty, good harbors and ports.  I’m grateful to find one this day.

Fair Winds and Calm Seas

Dave

Safe Harbor:  Soper's Hole, West End, Tortola, BVI

Harbors in the US

8 Alabama; 58 Alaska; 119 Califorania; 25 Connecticut; 15 Delaware; 257 Florida; 45 Georgia; 7 Hawaii; 40 Louisiana; 52 Maine; 30 Maryland; 68 Massachusetts; 8 New Hampshire; 19 New Jersey; 57 New York; 28 North Carolina; 30 Oregon; 7 Puerto Rico; 18 Rhode Island; 76 South Carolina; 22 Texas; 31 Virginia; 92 Washington

TOTAL:  1,112